Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Celtic Immersion

You know you are in Ireland when you approach the beer fridge and find that hard cider is sold in two liter plastic bottles. Well done Irish. 
Ireland is an island covered in thick overcast, think accents and thick beers. The culture is robust and reveals itself in the tiny pockets of each neighborhood. I learn quickly the you NEVER go north of the river since those streets are stapled with used syringes and riff raff that you generally want to avoid.

My home is Abigail's hostel just on the northern layer of dublin's  historically hip temple bar neighborhood. Cobblestone streets, funky restaurants and truly Irish pubs more frequent than you find Starbucks in downtown Seattle. After a day of sleeping off my jet lag and receiving my tardy checked bags, I roll out to my first business of tourism: Guinness brewery. This a well designed, self-led tour spiraling up to the 7th floor Gravity Bar with an aerial view of Dublin and a complimentary Guinness pint. A bit of history in each pint, the yeast used in the original batch made by Arthur Guinness is reborn into each new brew. 

Pheonix park is nestled nearby, but difficult to find after a my stout run-in. Upon arrival, a swan gently poised atop a pond eyes me as i walk past. Cue Billy Madison quote, "stop looking at me swan."
Later in the eve...a Pub crawl means exactly that, strolling around via cobblestone paths to find the next Classic American coverband blasting through the speakers in the next drinking space. A night to remember a night to forget. 

The next morning, I spring to my feet and an impulse decision takes me to Howth just north of the city. A town that lays claim to a lovely coastline "walk." A pure issue of irish vs american semantics. This "walk"is actually quite a difficult hike. One I am not prepared for as I walk, climb, descend, balance, repeat for 10  km along the Lush, rocky Irish cliffside. I intersect with a lovely Irish couple. They give me advice about the rest of the hike and must have noticed my American accent because as we part ways the husband yells, "...and I'm drinking a bud light!!!" revealing an opened tall can of Bud light in hand. Awesome....

I finish  my hike at the trail head near the DART station with a Stella beer at a bar called "Bloody stream." Nuff said. 

A decadent steak dinner at the chophouse in Dublin 4 neighborhood and an early evening prepares me for day #4 in dublin. 

I wake early for a run around compact trinity college campus, Dublin castle, and St Patrick's cathedral. Historical  sites that are a must see because they represent the transition from Georgian era of Irish history. In complete contrast of typical Irish cuisine, my last meal is at Cornucopia, a lovely organic/vegan restaurant. I offer this guy a quick snuggle....

That night, I fly  to the dramatic beaches, pristine countryside, and Spanish charm that makes Ibiza an island to return to... 

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